Improvement in cloth drawers



' and exact description thereof.

Aterial, above and below, so as to fit well to the form,

withthe provision for the seam as out and laid in conordinary construction where there is no outside seam WMe-erw H. P. vvETiroide.,v or ELIZABETH,

NEW JERsErAND J. c. HrrcH- COCK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

Letters Patent No. 84,073,

datedNovember 17 1868.

l IIPROVEMIENT IN CLOTH DRAWERS.

The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part of the Bama To all whom it 'may concern Be it' known that we, H. P. VVETMORE, of Elizabeth.l in the county of Essex, State of New Jersey, and J. G. HITCHCOCK, of the city and county of New York, and State of New York, of the firm of WETMORE 8L HITCHCOCK, manufacturers and dealers in gentlemens furnishing-goods, doing business at No. 271 Canal street, in said city of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Mode of Cutting and Making Drawers, and analogous articles of clothing;r Aand we do hereby declare that the following is a full Our invention is intended to supply the desired fulness for the calf of the leg, while economizing the mawithout the expense of material or labor which results from other modes of fitting.

Our invention consists in piecing or forming a seam in each leg, which, starting on the outside at the ankle, and running up on the Voutside. of the leg, near or quite to the knee, extends thence across in the'rear of the leg, and joins the ordinary inside seam. It is prefera ble to extend the seam across in an oblique direction, rounding the corner or bend, but it is not absolutely' essential to the success of our invention that any particular degree of Obliquity be given, so long as the two edges of the goods which are joined together are of precisely equal length. n

We will proceed to describe what we consider the best manner of carrying out the invention.

AThe accompanying drawings form a part of this specification.

Figure lis a view of one-half of a pair of drawers,

Vtact on the cutting-board, to show the size of the calf before seaming the same together, and

Figure 2 is a rear view of an entire pair of drawers.

Similar letters of reference indicate like parts in all the figures. l The ordinary waistband, pieces at the waist, and the ordinary facings at the front, buckles or other adjustments at the back, binding, buttons or strings, or the like at the bottom, may be employed with our invention the same as in the ordinary modes of making drawers.

In making drawers for very large persons, from narrow goods, we may make an outside seam; in other words, we may make each half of the drawers in two pieces, in consequence of insufficient material in a single breadth. But when this is done, it is entirely independent of the peculiarity of our invention; that is to say, our invention is made precisely the same-our seam runs'across the back, at or near the knee, in the same manner as if the side seam did not exist.

We have, represented and will describe the more extending4 the whole length of the leg.

We form the half` of the drawers of v two pieces, one, the principal part, being marked A, and the other, the

subordinate part, being marked B. The pieces are cut and adapted to apply together when laid flat on the cutting-board, as indicated in iig. 1. The curves of the two pieces are not alike, and the act of seaming up the pieces leaves the garment full opposite the calf, (the point indicated by the red line S S,) and thinner above, at the line indicated by T T, while the piece B, not being necessarily cut from the same part of the cloth in which it here lies, may be out from this portion or other portion of the fabric, in such position as to economize and utilize nearly all the material.

This mode of cutting to produce the desired fnlness at the calf of the leg, makes abetter it, and produces only about halfthe waste which is produced by` thel ordinary method. It may not be necessary to specify from what part of the fabric this piece B is out, or the many positions in which the pattern may be laid on the fabric, to obtain this piece in the right form, and leave none but very narrow and insigniiicant waste pieces.

The edges of the pieces B and A, as applied together in fig. 1, touch at'the point 2. They diverge very considerably at the points 1 1, which induces the proper contraction at the ankle. They diverge again considerably at the points 3 3 and ,4 4, and less at the points 5 5 and 6 6. The curve on which the seam is thus formed, promotes the accuracy of the fit, and avoids wrinkling, while the difference in the curve of the piece B, from that in the piece A, forms the swell at the calf in exactly the position and under all the conditions required. The obliquity of the seam, and the ent-ire construction, carried out as here' described, tend to shorten the back side of the leg a little as compared with the front side, this condition favoring the bend of the le Weghave represented the style of the trimmings, or fitting at the waste and ankle, which we have found preferable in practice. The two buttons at the ankle provide the desired range or graduation in the'size for the limbs of dierent wearers, and the increased breadth of the facing-pieces, opposite the buttons and buttonholes, gives the proper hold on the goods and the proper strength to the entire construction of that point, with.`

forth.

H. l?. W'ETMORE. J. G. HITCHCOCK. Witnesses:

S. Hosronn, C. 0. Lrvnves. 

